From the archive · Apparel & Accessories · 11 August 2012

Apparel & Accessories: Colonial Warriors

As the crowd gathered into the Taj Palace for the third night of PCJ Delhi Couture Week, a very special show was being prepared. Lights dimmed and people took their seats and suddenly romantic music began playing setting the scene for Anju Modi’s contribution to this year’s couture extravaganza. Footage of boats on water and people smiling streamed at a steady pace as the models began sashaying down the ramp. Noyonika Chatterjee headlined for the designer showcasing red eye shadow covering her eyes and jewels acting as a large bindi.

Inspired by Bengali Literature and with the attitude that women are powerful and strong headed yet sensitive and loving beings, Modi’s collection was created to showcase her belief in the female as a force to be reckoned with.

Her clothes displayed Modi’s simple and delicate approach to couture as layers and drapes adorned the tradition garments. Lehengas were accompanied by bunched shoulder covers and lace sleeves. The down to earth collection gave way to an earthy Indian feel, which left the crowd feeling relaxed. Floral embroidery was simple and the lack of heavy embellishments was a breath of fresh air from the lavish display of sparkle many are used to seeing at couture week shows.

Her muted colour palette of red, black, cream and gold accompanied by the natural imagery projected behind the models was a lovely touch. However as the bridal collection began to make its way on to the ramp it was clear that Modi is capable of catering to anyone’s tastes. An explosion of red seared through the runway as the models wore beautiful saris hand woven in villages in Bengal.

Modi’s collection showcased the delicate craftsmanship it takes to create such fine fabrics. “It takes months to weave one fabric,” said the designer after the show, adding, “Couture is fine detail to the utmost perfection. This country has been doing couture for a thousand years. The world influences our thinking process and I admire the Indian skill. I’ve been doing this for twenty years and the skilled labour is something to be proud of. We’ve been influenced by the English culture, we’re talking in English, yet we’re maintaining our roots.”

With a colonial influence over the collection and such deep rooted ideas of the feminity, one would have thought that Modi’s show was lovely just the way it is. However as the crowd got ready to applaud the designer a quote by one of India’s leading actresses and role models was heard and suddenly a gasp went through the crowd as a vision in a full embroidered lehenga walked into the spotlight. Madhuri Dixit, the legendary actress was all smiles and grace as she glided down the runway to the whistles of the crowd. Wearing a sleeveless black blouse and a cream skirt covered in hand stitched embroidery; the icing on the cake was a muslin dupatta in red which had gold accents stitched to the seams. Naming Dixit her muse Modi commented on how the actress helped her with her collection; “I met Madhuri one year ago. She is down to earth, enigmatic and elegant. My muse, she is like an expression of mine. There is a higher thinking and perfection level that completes a person and she represented that.”

Text by Devika Mehta