From the archive · Apparel & Accessories · 9 August 2012

Apparel & Accessories: Couture Carnival Begins!

The PCJ Delhi Couture Week kicked off with a bang at The Taj Palace on 8th August. Varun Bahl’s show – ‘India Nouveau’ – was the first of the day, while JJ Valaya wowed his audience in the second show held at the Grand, Vasant Kunj.

Bahl’s collection deflected from traditional notions of Indian wear and presented more contemporary, edgier versions of the Sari, the Achkan, the sharara, the Mughal Farsi and the Lehenga. The use of black in many of the couture outfits came as a welcome surprise, breaking the age old notions surrounding its preconceived inauspiciousness. The other colours dominating the collection were olives, corals, reds and cobalt-to-navy blues. Although the cuts and shapes in the collection are traditional, the extensive use of sensuous fabrics like silk net, chiffon, silk, velvet combined with a multitude of embroidery techniques, transparency, layering, flounce, fit, flare and volume took this collection far away from the conventional. It broke through the notions of Indian haute couture being solely focused on bridal wear to evening wear for the modern Indian woman. The theme of the collection is called India Nouveau which means India new. It is for the new generation who want to wear Indian clothes but not necessarily want a heavy or a decked up look. They want to look stylish Varun bahl said on the occasion.

Spotted cheering from the front rows were Sunanda Pushkar, Kalyani Chawla, Rohit Gandhi (who seemed very upbeat all evening), Rahul Khanna, Gauri Karan and of course FDCI president Sunil Sethi who was all full of praise for the designer’s work. I think Varun’s show was fantastic. I loved his creativity. I think this was one of his best couture shows. And we feel we did a right thing by giving such a designer the first show, because that is very prestigious for us and he didn’t let us down one bit. Imagine pulling off such a show with only the strength of the clothes and no celebrity. His clothes were the stars, he said.

While long delays in starting both shows, and then all the running about from the Taj Palace to the Grand for the second show might have been low points for many, JJ Valaya’s show made sure the evening ended on a beautiful note. Extravagant sets, thumping music and a breath taking collection. A perfect finish to the first day of couture madness!

Text by Treesha Datta