Innovation has always come first for US cosmetics and skincare company Bobbi Brown, the eponymous label of New York-based makeup artist-turned-entrepreneur. Founded in 1991, Bobbi Brown revolutionized the fashion and makeup industry with her first-ever line of 10 natural’ brown-based lipsticks, soon followed by yellow-toned foundations and concealers, gel eye liner, pot rouge, shimmer brick, and much more. Her philosophy, All women are pretty; but with the right tools and knowledge, can be ”Pretty Powerful”‘- has drawn millions of women around the world to her fold.
Teaching the art of makeup is key to Brown’s philosophy. Her professional makeup artists teach women to be their own beauty experts. To celebrate the launch of Bobbi Brown in India, the makeup company recently hosted a makeup master class at the central atrium near the Bobbi Brown Cosmetics store at Select Citywalk, New Delhi, led by two international makeup experts – Portugual-raised Eduardo Ferreira who’s been trained by Brown herself and works backstage with her at New York Fashion Week for brands like Rachel Roy, Tory Burch, J Mendel, and Halston, and Lebanese-born, Dubai-based Eliano Bou-Assi who is also the manager of education for the brand.
At the master class, Ferreira begins by saying that the first and most important step before applying makeup is hydration using a cream like Hydrating Face Cream, which is a primer and moisturizer in one, and an eye cream like a Hydrating Eye Cream. What these do is plump up the skin, and create a perfect base for makeup (and you can skip the primer). “The idea is to use as little makeup as possible,” says Ferreira.
As he gets ready to demonstrate on a model, Ferreira tells us a bit about the rules of foundation. “This should be flawless and invisible, and adapted to your skin type.” So how do you decide which is the right colour of foundation for the skin? “Bobbi has 20 shades of foundation. In India, the challenge, was, how to get the right colour? The thing to keep in mind, is to use yellow-based, not pink-based foundations (they make skin look ashen). Bobbi was the first to tell the world about undertones.” Ferreira then held up the Foundation Stick, which gives buildable colour, and is suitable for all skin types. For Indian skin, he recommends the following: “Look at your face. In Indian skins specifically, you have to check for areas of darkness. Swatch different colours, and do blend the product on the neck and the chest.” As one of Bobbi Brown’s makeup artists from London swatched my skin, I was told I was a Natural Tan’, in the Long-Wear Even Finish Compact Foundation.
Then comes choosing the all-important concealer, which is actually the first makeup product to go on your face. “The Creamy Concealer by Bobbi Brown is already adjusted for each shade of foundation,’ says Ferreira. Concealer is the secret of the universe. The dark circles under your eyes (a particular bane for Indian women), can be bluish or greenish in colour. On top of this goes the Corrector, that is pink- or peach-based, depending on what suits your skin. Apply this with a brush, and the more the colour, the more the coverage.’ The Bobbi Brown formulas contain kaolin and silica, and tend to blend easily into the skin, I find. When asked what is the best lighting in which to apply foundation and concealer, Ferreira is quick to reply, Natural light is always the best.’
He then proceeds to demonstrate foundation application on the model. “Always start at the side of the nose and tip,” he says as he blends the foundation with the Foundation Brush on the model’s skin. Then to remove shine, use powder – Skin Foundation Mineral Makeup SPF 15 is a good choice. To give skin a natural finish, use Bronzing Powder, which should like one has a natural tan, explains Ferreira. “At Bobbi Brown, we are obsessed with the invisible,’ says Ferreira. Just apply with a large brush, like Bronzer Brush, on cheeks, chin, and neck.’
Our second makeup guru, Eliano Bou-Assi then proceeds to do a demo on creating a five-minute smokey eye, using only two Bobbi Brown products, the Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick (a creamy eyeshadow), and the Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner. It comes in eight pretty shades, so he suggests you pick one, and apply it on the eyelid, blending it out as you go along (the Smokey Eyeliner Brush is a good choice). “You may need to layer it for more colour,’ says Bou-Assi. Then apply the gel eyeliner (you can use the Ultra Fine Eyeliner Brush or the Eye Liner Brush) – in Black Ink. Make it messy, and put it close to the lash line, thinner at the inner corner, and thicker outside. And always, always use black mascara! (A good choice is Everything Mascara).’ He demonstrates by applying it from the front of the lashes, bottom to top. To finish up, he suggests grooming the eyebrows with brow powder and a spooley (you can use the Light Brow Kit or the Dark Brow Kit, depending on your colouring). Apply the lipstick of your choice, and your all-natural makeup look is done. So now, you really can be your own makeup artist.
Text by Priya Kumari Rana