From the archive · Gourmet & Nightlife · 10 May 2013

Gourmet & Nightlife: JAPAN COMES HOME!

One cannot think well, love well, sleep well if one has not dined well.

‒ Virginia Wool

Scouting excellent fare to fulfill Ms Woolf’s prophecy for the night isn’t very hard in a metropolitan city in India if you’re a newbie. However, for the hardened, cynical Delhiite, the problem of inspiring choice rears its unpleasant head fairly often, especially when one considers our expanding appetites for new cuisines.

Now sushi and Shiro’s, individually and collectively aren’t exactly nouveau, but surprisingly have managed to retain their sense of je ne sais quoi (which also explains why they’re planning to hit the international scene soon after having launched three restaurants in Bengaluru, Delhi, and Mumbai). Charmingly, the concept of the restaurant is based on traditional entertainment in Japanese castles of yore, the present entertainers being the excellent service and the giant female statues that represent queenly consorts but are often mistaken for Buddhas.

Spread over 65,000 square feet, the Delhi-based property situated within Hotel Samrat on Kautilya Marg, Chanakyapuri is split into three sections: Teppenyaki, the main bar, and private dining rooms. The décor boasts designer Ambrish Arora’s soothing touch with its waterfall displays, calming use of stone, and soft lighting that also extends to an intimate outdoor seating area, perfect for enjoying a nightcap during the winters. The menu is as generous as the space: the alcohol list offers a selection of wine, although the experience isn’t complete without opting for warm sake. The price of a meal for two without alcohol averages Rs 4,000, while the Sunday brunch is priced at Rs 1,500 approximately.

Surprisingly, unlike other Japanese restos around India, Shiro’s attempts to supply fresh catch from Indian sources. For those who like to experiment, but need to fool their tastebuds that are accustomed to rich rogan josh and creamy dal makhni, the sesame-crusted tuna with wasabi mayo, albeit not the healthiest option, is a particularly toothsome choice. A sensible rosé complements their sashimi and sushi premium platter, while salmon lovers should not give the tender Norwegian salmon that melts in garlic butter sauce a miss. The crispy spicy avocado maki is sumptuous enough to convert non-vegetarians, but the fat, juicy tiger prawns in their pink, speckled avatars give the maki a tough run for its money.

If you’d like a touch out of the ordinary however, choose to sit at one of the three Teppenyaki tables and meet the restaurant’s latest one-man entertainment unit, a Russian-Korean chef, Chef Wadim. Select a rare-medium offering, and ask for your rice and vegetables to be kept as light as possible, and then sit back and enjoy the show as knives flash and slice across vegetables, seafood, pork, and rice. A pleasing note is the chefs light banter that constantly entertains guests at the table without intruding their private space. While you click your chopsticks in anticipation, Chef Wadim pulls out card tricks, juggles eggs and knives alike, and finally ends the evening by serenading you with his guitar and lilting voice, that complement a chocolate and pecan tart, or even a warm mascarpone cheese cake perfectly. It’s certainly a sight better than catching a movie on family night, but stick to the sushi sections if you’re a tad overprotective of your girlfriend.

By Aashmita Nayar