And what a premiere it was. Chanels very first watch for women, the Premiere was one of those fashion must haves at the burning end of the 1980s and sported by every fashionable slender wrist youd spot in Cannes, or in Parisian ballrooms.
To commemorate the silver jubilee of the timepieces launch, the fashion house has re-released the watch, albeit, dressed in very different finery. The 2012 version is called the Premiere Flying Tourbillon a high mechanical complication watch incorporating a unique flying Tourbillon. The company had released its first Tourbillon on a J12 model in 2005. However this exceptional Tourbillon, developed in close collaboration between Chanel and Swiss manufacturers and master-watchmakers Renaud & Papi (the advanced research and development branch of Audemars Piguet), is a first for both companies.
Two versions of the limited-edition Premiere Flying Tourbillion have been created: one which is embellished with no less than 228 diamonds and cast in 18 carat gold for a total weight of 7.7 carats; and the more exclusive ruby version which uses natural and unheated Mozambique rubies, is also made in 18-carat white gold and set with 182 rubies for a total weight of 13.2 carats. Created by hand, each diamond piece required 23 hours of setting and over one hundred hours of assembly while the ruby Premiere Flying Tourbillon took a whopping 160 hours of gem-setting, 85 hours of assembly work (movement and case) and four days of testing.
The shape of the watch was inspired by the octagonal geometry of the famous Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle stopper and Place Vendome, the prestigious square in Paris. Each dial has a motif of the camellia (a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanels favourite flower). Beneath the flower this flying Tourbillon beats away, almost discreetly, making one rotation per minute, with the petals indicating the seconds. This movement which the brand calls Camélia Flying Tourbillon equips the watch with a power reserve of 40 hours.
Not surprisingly, aficionados will have to pull some serious weight to get their hands on the diamond version of the watch only 20 have been produced. And thats a lot when you consider that only one ruby version has been made. It doesnt get any more exclusive than that.
SPECIFICATIONS
The ruby Premiere Flying Tourbillon (3,70,000 Euros)
Bezel and case (28.5 mm x 37 mm) in 18-carat white gold set with 151 baguette-cut rubies certified natural and unheated for a total weight of 11.57 carats.
Upper part of the bezel created with exceptional invisible setting work for the baguette-cut rubies.
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, colourless.
Dial in polished black ceramic.
Hands in 18-carat white gold set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Tourbillon cabochon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Crown in 18-carat white gold set with 16 baguette-cut rubies (0.32 carats) and one rose-cut ruby (0.45 carats)
Case-back in 18-carat white gold.
Strap in black alligator leather or black satin.
Clasp: double folding buckle in 18-carat white gold set with 14 baguette-cut rubies (0.85 carats) certified natural and unheated.
Water resistance: 30 meters.
The diamond Premiere Flying Tourbillon (2,20,000 Euros)
Bezel in 18 carat white gold, set with 38 baguette-cut diamonds (2.4 carats) and 52 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.5 carat).
Case (28.5 x 37mm) in 18 carat white gold, set with 47 baguette-cut diamonds (3 carats).
Clear anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
Dial in polished black ceramic.
Hands in 18 carat white gold, set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Cabochon tourbillon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds
Crown in 18 carat white gold, set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds and 11 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Case back in 18 carat white gold.
Black alligator or satin strap.
Clasp: double folding buckle in 18 carat white gold set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Water resistance: 30 meters.
Chanel Boutiques
Delhi: 011- 41116840/44
Paris: 0033-8-20002005
www.chanel.com