TürkçeRums (Turkish Greeks).
However after finding out that these families were secretly helping the Morean uprisings Mahmut II confiscated their mansions and gave them to Jewish families who then dominated the trade sector. They were also forced to leave for Balat, Ortaköy and Kuzguncuk after the widespread fires that devastated the neighborhood. According to Şirket-i Hayriye’s (Ottoman Maritime Company) Bosphorus Yearbook of 1912, the fire became uncontrollable due to east – northeast winds. Arnavutköy has been the witness of numerous historical events including the forced migration of non-Muslim population to mostly Greece and other countries after the September 5-6 incidents in 1955. This tragic incident completely altered the ethnical structure of the neighborhood.
Among the most popular attractions of the neighborhood today, Ali Baba grilled meatballs restaurant, Arnavutköy pier and Tevfikiye Mosque stand out. However the first thing comes to mind about Arnavutköy is the small but deliciously scented, sweet strawberries. They are picked from the surrounding hills in season and sold at neighborhood markets. Famous Turkish traveler and historian Evliya Çelebi draws a picture of the settlement in 17th century: “There are approximately 1000 water side mansions with gardens owned by Rum and Jewish families.
Although there are no mosques or alms houses for the poor, there is a small public bath. Since the neighborhood is dense with shops, vineyards and orchards are not large. The bread and rusks baked here are white. The Jewish community is music loving people with good taste. The majority of Rum Christians are of Laz origin. The Muslim community is fairly small.” This is the past and present of the two must-see pearls of İstanbul, Bebek and Arnavutköy.
SPRING 2013
he road following the coast line between Aşiyan and Bebek is one of the most beautiful parts of Bosphorus where the sycamore trees are the first to herald the spring every year. A typical Bosphorus picture that best reflects Tevfik Fikret’s “Sis” (fog) poem and Qaliph Abdülmecid Efendi’s eponymous painting at the poet’s house in Aşiyan… Walking a little further, breathing in the salty breeze, you begin to feel the liveliness of Bebek. Although the neighborhood is now associated with the popular culture, it was also a significant settlement area during Byzantine and Ottoman times.
Let’s talk about the history of Bebek. In the Pre-Christian era the name of Bebek was Chilai. It was a Byzantine fishing village before the conquest of Istanbul by Sultan Mehmed II and was named after Bebek Çelebi, an Ottoman officer who took part in the conquest. During the construction of the Rumelian Castle, Mehmed II appointed Bebek Çelebi to the region who built a mansion and a garden for himself and lived there until his death. Once a summer resort, the neighborhood became popular during the reign of Ahmed III, transforming into a all seasons settlement. The Bebek Mosque and Humayunabad Pavillion were built in this era along with numerous mansions and water-side mansions built by the non-Muslim elite. In 1863 Americans discovered the neighborhood with Robert College and American College for Girls. After the issuing of protection regulations of 1980s for the hills of Bosphorus, the neighborhood started its golden age with popular hangouts still in vogue today. Some of them are modern and luxurious venues and the others are classic hangouts that are part of the neighborhood’s history. One of the must-see places that is typical of Bebek is
the famous Bebek Marzipan Shop.
Protected by its owners in its authentic state, the shop offers completely natural marzipan and pistachio paste that are addictively delicious. Then comes Bebek Hotel, Bebek park, Bebek coffee house and many other points of attraction. These are only a few places which the inhabitants of Bebek visit every weekend. Lucca, Chilai, Divan Patiserie, Bebek Fish Restaurant, Santral Charcuterie and the boutiques of national and international highend brands are among the recent highlights of the neighborhood. Just sitting on a bench at the shore, listening to the sound of waves, looking at the yachts and savoring the beauty of the phosphorescences while enjoying your sesame bagels is enough for a quality time at Bebek.
If you leave Bebek and walk ashore further south you will see that the Bosphorus widens and the current becomes violent. This is Akıntıburnu (cape current) where the waters of Bosphorus become turbulent, creating whirlpools. The blustering north wind is enough to chill even the hottest days of summer. Facing the cool wind after leaving the sheltered Bebek cove will make you feel refreshed. And the road takes you to another beautiful Bosphorus neighborhood: Arnavutköy.
Situated between Bebek and Kuruçeşme, Arnavutköy is a historically significant neighborhood. Known as Promotu or Anaplus during Byzantine era, the neighborhood comes forward with Ayios Mihael (St. Michael) Church. Since the streets of Arnavutköy nests a number of churches, the place is also known as the Cove of Angels. Although the exact origin of the name Arnavutköy (Albanian village) is yet unknown, most probably it comes from the jannisary troops of Albanian origin who were sent here to protect the settlement during the conquest of Istanbul in 1453. The neighborhood used to be one of the summer getaways of 19th century.
During the reign of Selim III almost all important waterside mansions were owned by wealthy
İLKBAHAR 2013