“Seeing the world through a chef´s eyes”
The house where you´d find Restaurante Arzak was built at the end of the nineteenth century. It´s a silent witness to the evolution of a basque cuisine that developed over more than a century of family tradition.Today, this house is a temple for a leading world cuisine. Juan Mari Arzak continues to fully navigate this historical endeavor while constantly looking towards the future.
A lifetime in this house...
This house was built by my grandfather. I was born here and have lived here all my life. My uncle built a tavern in the lowest level. Later, my parents continued on here. Then me, and now my daughter, Elena, is the one that continues with the tradition in this same house.
There is a lot of tradition and history, but you were amongst the pioneers in the so called “New Basque Cuisine.”
Exactly. We started with this idea in 1975 at a culinary roundtable that was organized by Gourmet magazine.
Wasn´t this a risk during a time of full-on political and social transition in Spain in the 70s?
Yes, it was a little difficult. I had some luck and the restaurant was run by my mother (I lost my dad when I was 9). She mostly cooked for weddings and she was really well known. She allowed me to occupy a small dining room in which I was able to present my proposals.
How did your mother handle the change of direction in your career? Initially, you wanted to be a foreman builder.
Well she didn´t take it too well! (He laughs). It was hard for her, but in time she was convinced about my passion.
And how do you reach that perfect balance?
First of all, you have to work with the product from Square 1.... a good, first quality meat or fish. Next, we use ingredients from diverse provinces to reinvent the dish: salts, peppers, herbs, seeds, etc., although we have to like them, and above all else, they should blend well with the flavors of our basque cuisine.
“It´s important never
to lose the ability to
impress”
Is there a globalization that emerges in the culinary world thanks to the mix of ingredients?
I am against globalization when it comes to cuisine. I find it interesting to be aware of where you are in each moment through the dishes you enjoy. Each country, each region has it´s own identity. For example, Spain is a mosaic of cultures, especially gastronomically.
But to be recognized as the “best chef ” is a challenge when there is Juan Mari Arzak working in the same kitchen. It´s all success isn´t it?
Of course. It´s something I am very proud of.
Although at home, we believe that what you need to do is carry out and complete your job to the best of your ability every single day. The clients that walk out the door should leave content. That is the goal.
Was it as complicated for Elena as it was for you when she told her mother she wanted to dedicate herself to the culinary world too?
You have to realize that our house was here in front of the restaurant. Therefore, we practically lived in the restaurant. Elena helped out a lot.
In a family business everyone helps out, and she wasn´t any exception.
What percentage of tradition and what percentage of innovation do we find here in Arzak?
Everything is mixed! Our objective is to conserve the spirit of the traditional basque cuisine. But this was all accomplished through a blend of research, development and innovative design.
Does a direct relationship exist between the cultural level and the gastronomic level of each region?
Totally. These are two paralells. Let´s consider historically young, or newer, countries such as Australia and the United States. In historically older cultures and tradition, a better cuisine corresponds. Without history, a good gastronomic base does not exist.
Alter so many years of impressing your clients, how do you maintain the level you´ve achieved?
You don´t have to go crazy. Through studies and a career, you will be a great chef. But to reach excellence, you have to be been born to do it.
You have to look at the world through the eyes of a chef. I am constantly taking notes, and it´s important never to lose the ability to impress.
In Arzak we create somewhere between 40 and 50 new dishes each year. This gives me life and reminds me that not everything has been done nor created. Actually, it´s always the same. The secret?
Work, investigation, evolution, leadership, and of course, a good dose of humility
WINTER 2012
What came first, family recognition or public
recognition?
You know what? At home, the idea of recognition doesn´t appeal to us very much. We are working, we see eachother every day, it´s a daily thing. For example, my daughter has been named “the best chef in the world.” But sometimes I forget this, even when she is next to me. (He laughs).